Mini-man-rob
11 posts
Joined: 29/07/2009 13:59:29
Location: Platerton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Head Steady + Radiator Bracket.
I have a standard 1983 998 + stage 1 kit but have fitted a sandwich plate inbetween the thermostat housing and cylider head.
Any thought on which utlimate engine steady I should looking to get?
From what I gather the cooper 1275 1990 - 1992 carb that uses the sandwich plate is wrong because they use a large bore thermostat, so I was thinking the single point injection one but I don't understand what the differrence between the 1275 and the 998 head steady is. Prehaps the 1275's sit higher.
I also need to think about which rad bracket to buy. Same problem. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Posted: Jan 22, 2010 02:38 PM
i. belle
2 posts
Joined: 07/02/2005 11:09:53
Location: bolton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
LH ENGINE BRACKET FOR AUTOMATIC
HI can anyone help, i need the left hand (under the radiator) bracket as a pot hole has taken mine out along with the fan blade cheers
Posted: Jul 17, 2007 07:39 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fitting spotlights
Unless you've got the special mini radiator grille with the two cut-outs for spotlights, then you'll need to mount the brackets on the front panel, so the spots fit just in front of the grille. Probably best to remove the front bumper and grille first. Usually you put one bolt down through the "lip" that the bumper attaches to and another one behind it on the panel just below the grille. Check extremely carefully before drilling holes to make sure that (a) the bumper fits and (b) the grille fits and (c) the spots are positioned equi-distant from the centre-line. Obviously, different brackets may not fit the same way!
Posted: Mar 05, 2008 05:08 PM
Luis
Joined: 18/08/2005 18:09:11
Location: Portalegre Portugal
chrome parts
Thanks to your answer! but i already saw the WP site and i didn't find any engine parts in chrome, like clutch case cover, motor start, water pump pulley, radiator top bracket and radiator cowling one piece!please let me know if someone knows anything!
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 01:01 AM
Radiator replacement: Any hints for getting the bolts in tight places
Do you mean the little bolts that hold the metal shroud to the radiator frame? Normally, I take the radiator out with the shroud attached. You have to take the fan off first, obviously, but then it's just a case of removing the top bracket, and undoing the bottom mounting bolt (which fixes the bottom of the shroud to the engine mounting) and lifting it out. Reverse the process (as the manual always says!) to refit it.
Posted: Dec 06, 2009 05:08 PM
GazRawly
1 posts
Joined: 30/07/2008 18:23:21
Location: Bath United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hello People! Help required..998 - 1275 conversion. Thermostat - rad - rear mount.
Hello everyone! Been looking around the site for awhile and spotted a forum tab
I have been restoring a 1984 Mini Austin 998 and it's taken some time to do. So far I have spent over 4months welding and sorting the engine out. Just need your expertise as it's pretty close to being back on the road, just 1 sill left to weld on!
I know this has probably been asked hundred's of times but please be patient i've tried my best to get the info. I just want to be 100% sure what I need. I had a boo boo when I fired it up a few months ago, it took 3 of the fins off the fan as it spun into the radiator cowling! Doh :( So from what I can work out, im going to need a 1275 top radiator bracket which i've found off the site, a top hose which i've also found. I am going to need new bolts for the rad as these were badly corroded on removal and a new bracket from the rear engine mount (dog bone style on the bulk head) to the thermostat top. Not sure where to get these bits from...
Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers!
Posted: Jul 30, 2008 06:39 PM
MrJenkinsEsq
29 posts
Joined: 05/11/2004 13:06:45
Location: Manchester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
inlet
The inlet manifold is a Maniflow one. I do have an MG metro one which appears to be smaller, but I have heard that it is not very efficient. My dashpot problem is cured - when timing was more accurately set it disappeared. I do have the heatshield/abutment thing but there is no attatchment for a spring. I suppose I will have to make a bracket for it. The latest problem today was the ultimate engine stabiliser fouling on the fan which lead to the blades flying off and carving up the new 2 core radiator! Thankfully no apparent leaks yet...
Posted: Aug 30, 2005 09:55 PM
blimeycharlie
9 posts
Joined: 31/12/2004 11:51:08
Location: Tamworth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
RE
Tim, Thanks for that i had forgot about the washers its been that long since i stripped it i will give that ago and change the radiator bracket a bit. Thanks a lot Mark
Posted: Sep 22, 2005 03:06 PM
Benjamin Johnson
Joined: 18/05/2013 20:04:48
Location: Bromyard United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine/radiator mounts...?
I am in the process of converting my 1275cc Automatic mayfair in to a manual 1275cc.
I have the engine mounts with spacer blocks to fit into my Auto subframe. On the near side i noticed the radiator bracket is completely different to that of the Auto. I am unsure as to which parts i actually need so i can drop this engine in.
Am i right in thinking i need:
-lower radiator bracket
-lower bracket adapter plate
-applicable bolts an tubes
I cant find any blown up technical drawings to see what parts i need exactly :(
Many thanks
Ben
Posted: May 29, 2013 08:10 PM
Principools
95 posts
Joined: 25/10/2005 00:47:23
Location: Crowborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
.
Rear suspension,,,,,,,,You may have negative camber brackets on the rear which do as they say, these brackets are on the outside of the arms. if they are not negative camber brackets you may have worn spindles/ cracked brackets. Im assuming the toe in is correct on the rear, and that the car doesnt handle badly or creak about at the rear. Water pumps are very easy to change, if not a bit fiddly. Drain down water, remove radiator, slacken alternator tension bolt and bracket, remove the fan and then undo the water pump. During the course of this you will swear atleast three times, shout shit that hurt once and mumble how the hell did they get that bottom hose on. Blue smoke is burning oil, generally valve guide but could be head gasket (doubtful) piston ring (again doubtful)
Posted: Jan 20, 2006 05:59 PM
Vince
68 posts
Joined: 31/01/2005 17:24:31
Location: Seneca United States
radiator...
Advice for rad removal... Try to loosen the hose clamp as much as possible. Remove all the bolts and brackets and other hoses and start pulling the rad upwards. You should be able to reach down with your other hand and reach that bottom clamp while pulling. If you still cant loosen it, use a flat screwdriver to try and pry it off. I was able to loosen mine enough to pull it loose. If the hose is in good shape, just put it back on when your done - with a NEW stainless steel hose clamp. If its sketchy looking, now is the perfect time to replace it. If you have to, cut it off. Getting your car cooling properly is important enough to do this right. Taking the radiator to a shop will be FAR more effective than a flush. They will soak it in a caustic bath for a couple of hours and run pressurized cleaner through it. You cant get it nearly as clean with a simple flush. Plus, the top of the rad will be a cool copper color when youre done. Remember, its far more expensive to repair or replace a warped head that a bottom hose... Vince
Posted: Jun 24, 2005 02:47 PM
Joigunni
Joined: 23/03/2006 03:16:30
Location: Reykjavik Iceland
mini/metro conversion
Hello, Im putting a metro 1275 engine in a mini 1000. I need to know what type of radiator top bracket to use, that fits the thermostat house with sandwich plate. And also what type of thermostat sandwich plate to use to use with the heater. I bought this and they dont seem to fit properly: 12G3512 - http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=33405 12G2453 - http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=36233 Any help would be allot appreciated :)
Posted: Apr 10, 2006 01:41 AM
28 posts
Joined: 07/04/2005 16:50:12
Location: Woodford Green United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fitting six blade metal fan
Hi Mark, I recently replaced mine for a 6 blade metal fan and at the same time fitted a super 2 core radiator and experienced the same problem as you. Size wise it should fit within the radiator cowling but it is deeper than the original plastic fan. Have you fitted both the metal washers that sat behing your original plastic fan? I found that without using both, the fan was too inboard towards the engine, and with two it comes very close to the radiator core. I overcame the problem by adjusting my top radiator bracket so that the radiator was as close to the inner wing as possible. Another option would be to fit a slimmer washer or reduce the thickness of the one/s you have. Good luck and let me know how you get on. Tim
Posted: Sep 22, 2005 12:43 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Radiator replacement: Any hints for getting the bolts in tight places.
I find the best way to get the bolts into a tight place is to just let them drop out. Invariably they will fall inside the lefthand engine mount bracket and can be a right pain in the a*se to retrieve.
On a serious note: The bottom ones are best done with the NSF wheel removed (car on axle stand please..) The upper ones require you to remove the upper bracket, which means undoing the thermostat housing nuts so watch out for leaks up here when you put it back together. New mounting rubbers will be required as the old ones will be cracked and hard and will be adding to vibration stress on the radiator.
Posted: Dec 07, 2009 02:10 PM
jag_clarke
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
there isnt alot to worry about ul need a new top radiator bracket if old engine is 998, the oil breather on rad side of engine may need flattening a bit with hammer to clear fan from old engine. rad should be ok from 998 as it was same 3 core one used on all models but uprated one may avoid overheating in hot summer traffic jams but itsnt esential but give it good flush with tap/hose. late 1275 metro use cable clutch i think 85 should be ok, think its hydralic still. carb need is fine, speedo should read correctly if ur mini is post 1980. brakes if ur mini is pre 84 might be worth upgrading to discs for safety metro brakes can be modifyied to fit so worth holding onto them if metro gets scrapped. the heater hose outlet will need drilling out on 1275 metro just so some water can flow about 10mm drill bit. i think thats pritty much it. buy new engine mounts x2, engine steady mounts x2, water hose gasket, may need new heater hoses/vacume pipes. also if ur mini hasnt got servo brakes u will need a plug to blank servo take off on intake manifold. ul need an engine hoist to get engine out iv done without in past its not worth it, also make sure u connect speedo cable before engine fully in car. water pump on metro will be standard large one and clutch type wont matter. if its pre 1980 mini say il list extra things ul need to do.
ps ur best fit stage one kit at same time as if not ul need a 1990-1991 mini cooper exhaust down pipe which is expensive and rc40 kit which costs nearly as much as stage 1 kit
Posted: May 13, 2009 09:42 PM
Engine removal near Cambridge/New Market
I always use a hoist (a) because I'm not very strong (b) I value my back and (c) I've got one anyway.
If you're lifting the body off the subframe (and I actually think that's far and away the easiest method if you've got the space and the height) you need to think carefully about how you're going to do it - getting two strong guys on the front panel may seem like a good idea until it separates from the wings! You can't lift under the wheel arches either, the wings will buckle. I use my hoist with a rope slung between the inner wing support brackets (these are the triangular shaped brackets that you'll see under the bonnet - one on the right just behind the radiator and the other one on opposite side). Failing that, I'd recommend a trolley jack under each footwell, with a stout piece of wood to spread the load, and jack them up simultaneously.
Don't forget to discsonnect the track rod ends before lifting!
Posted: Aug 24, 2006 11:01 AM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
metro engine into mini?
one thing you might have to purchase is a top radiator bracket as a 998 and 1275 are different sizes
but as chris says, its all easy and you can swap most bits from one engine to the other
Posted: Nov 02, 2006 10:10 AM
Rob
34 posts
Joined: 17/09/2004 20:29:45
Location: Wellingborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
How to fit an Expansion tank to side mounted radiator mini
Hi there
I had a problem with overheating on my mini and consequent loss of coolant so as a temporary measure, I fitted an expansion tank from a Morris Ital/Marina that I had laying about in the garage. This was very simple and just needed the tank fitting inside the car in the passenger footwell on the wheelarch using a simple bracket and a slightly longer overflow pipe from the radiator to the expansion tank through one of the many existing holes in the bulkhead. The radiator cap on the radiator was done up as normal but the one on the expansion tank was left loose. This way the coolant pushed from the radiator as it overheated was sent to the expansion tank and then sucked back into the radiator as it cooled down. therefore no loss of coolant . I ran the car for 6 months like this with no problems.
Posted: Mar 24, 2007 10:42 PM
Easy job, if not a bit fiddly. I assume its the top and bottom radiater hoses and heater hoses, probably not sold as a complete kit, but I could be wrong. start off with the rad hoses and replacing is very straight forward. the heater hoses inside the car will still hold some water so get a container to catch it in. Disconect both ends of the heater hoses from under the bonnet, one is on the heater tap on the lefthand side as you look at it, the other is attached to the rad bottom hose, which you will have allready detached. Probably have to remove the heater to make life easier detach hoses and pull through the bulk head, and may well be best to check the heater matrix while its out. Water pump bypass hose will require the radiator to be removed. Remove the top bracket and then lose your temper removing the two bolts securing the bottom bracket, do this while you replace the bottom hose as it will be much easier. Then remove the fan thats been getting in your way of removing the bottom bolts and on the bottom of the pump is a small flex hose Various amounts of spanner rash will be acquired and patience lost with the rad removal/bottom hose. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34509 http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34757 http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=36718 http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=37502 http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=38050 http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=38550 Hope my poor explanation has helped, Im sure others will add stuff/correct me, but from memory I think thats it haynes never even replied to my job request
Posted: Jan 26, 2006 09:22 PM